Review and Tests of Mechanic ET-10 Heating Table

I've been looking recently to buy a hot plate for SMD work. I didn't like the big 20 by 20 cm ones since I will not be doing such big PCBs. I also didn't like the Miniware 3 by 3 cm hot plate, because this is too small for my needs (and rather expensive). I decided to buy a 10 by 10 cm heating table, and Mechanic ET-10 caught my eye. More specifically I liked the hot plate itself, which is a 10 x 10 x 1.2 cm thick block of aluminum. It has two holes drilled through the back where two heating elements are inserted.

I eventually bought it and from the outside it seems a solid design. However, just as I turned it on and set its temperature, I heard a relay clicking inside. Well, using a relay for an "Intelligent Digital Constant Temperature" is something that does not look very good. The aluminum heating block has an important volume, therefore a high heat inertia. The best way to get it to a constant temperature is to use PID (proportional-integral-derivative) controller. And I don't think this is how its controller works.

Mechanic ET-10 hot plate

How to build a low voltage soldering iron

Although soldering irons are quite cheap, widely available and come in various shapes and sizes, let’s try to make one from scratch. This involves some basic knowledge of electronics and some DIY abilities. However, please note that building electrical devices carries risks, and I recommend exercising caution to fire, burns, or other hazards.

This article will describe some simple to build soldering irons that can provide 15 – 60 W and are powered at low voltage (5 – 20 V, depending on heater wire you use). This means you can power it with any power supply that meets these requirements (a computer power supply or notebook charger will be a good choice because it is also short circuit protected).